Huaraz de Peru, 7 de Deciembre.

The 440km journey that turned into 36 hours. 
Rather than bringing you pictures of the high alps and our outdoor adventures, we deliver you the story of a week long protest and our adventures in and out of Huaraz!

After a brief visit to Lima we headed north for Huaraz – for what was to be a 7 hour overnight bus trip. Being such a short journey by South American standards we didn't bother with food or much water. 

Just two hours from Lima the bus pulled over and we slept on the roadside for the night - for no known reason. We weren’t overly surprised by this random stop as this had happened in Bolivia, however after climbing out of the bus in the morning we discovered an extended queue of trucks, buses and vans as far as the eye could see - with an obvious protest and road block up ahead.

At 10am we hit the road for what was to be the start of 6 more road blocks in the space of 200-odd km. The highly effective method being rocks and boulders covering the roads and locals on cliff edges armed and ready with rocks.  After a while it became no surprise when the bus engine would cut and we would sit for 2-4 hours waiting for the action to clear.

It was as we departed from the third road block that we were warned to close our curtains in case protesters threatened the bus and I recall thinking – it won’t come to that, it seems all pretty relaxed out there………famous last words as 20 minutes later I woke to a rock through my window and glass all over my lap. The curtain acting as a brilliant net which perhaps spared Matt and I a bruise or two. At nearly 4000m it made for a very cold night in the bus with 2 broken windows!

After a few bus trips you learn to choose a seat strategically away from the bathroom to spare having to hear and smell the happenings of the toilet. Unfortunately after the broken window episode, we were re-seated to the back – in front of the toilet – which on a journey this long became increasingly feral as the hours ticked over. No matter how flash the bus company, the toilets are always deeeeesgusting!!

The cherry on-top came when we realised the hill we parked on for the second night had caused the toilet to leak!

With no food and no water left we were stoked to learn of a freight truck that had opened up shop 300m behind the bus - and was doing a roaring trade on muffins, chips, drinks and toilet paper. We joined the locals in buying a bag of 12 small muffins and water to tie us over for the next 24 hours.

After a second night in the bus, in some random town 1 hour from Huaraz, the locals began to get ratty! Further road blocks forced all the buses onto an alternative and very muddy single lane back road. Half an hour later...........yet another block, this time caused by a bus ahead that had slid in the mud, into the bank, leaving no hope of any other traffic getting past. 

This is where we gave up, got our bags and took off with two local lads to walk to Huaraz. Don't worry Mum's, we had had ample time to get to know them in the bus. We were told to leave our bags and collect them from the bus station in the afternoon - thankfully we were persistent in taking ours with us as 5 days later we met 2 people who still didn't have their luggage!

Anyhow a short walk to the first village, a banana and some buns for Matt, a corn cob for me, a hitch-hike later and we finally arrived in Huaraz. Our hostel thankfully very easy going about us turning up more than 24 hours late.

Matt y Juan-Carlos - hitching to Huaraz (Matt clearly having a great time)

One of the many forms of road blocking adopted by the locals

10 people jammed on the back of a Hilux - very happy to be moving!

At a glance it appeared that the police were really not making an impression as they were interspersed amongst the protesters looking as if they were having a social chat, clearly doing nothing to control the situations or clear the road. As it turns out the police are friends and family of all the protesters and also share the same opinion of the situation, hence their uselessness!!

Highly effective means of road blocking - basically as soon as it was
cleared the kids in town would throw them out again.



Riot police looking very official and useful!

The strike was supposedly for 24 hours to stop the government from allowing a Chilean mining company expand as it is causing contamination of the local river. A fair protest!!
6 days in and things were only gaining momentum.............

Tyres burnt in streets, rocks and broken concrete blocked all major roads. No traffic was allowed to enter or leave Huaraz until further notice and we were instructed not to leave the hostel as demonstration's worsened. All of the foreign owned business' were destroyed with rocks. Again the police appeared to be merely on show!
As we didn't have any travel deadlines to meet it really didn't matter, our only issue was boredom and everyday stuck meant one less in Ecuador.

Banco de Chile.........



One of the many contradictions we saw throughout the protests.
Cop caught and stripped by protesters (view from our hostel window)
- note tear gas looming in the background!

 Our first two days in Huaraz were relatively normal and some fun was had, we squeezed in a mountain bike ride in the Cordillera Blanca and a horse trek in the Cordillera Negro. This place is an outdoor mecca with 22 mountains over 6000m! Although it was business as usual initially, the protests grew momentum and the city went into complete lock-down on our second day there. The following 4 days were spent reading, blogging and wandering amongst all the action.





 

Pre-Inca mountain bike track

One afternoon we found a small supermarket with people in it and were allowed in via the back door to stock up on supplies..............we ended up being locked in there while a huge stampede of protesters went by. Everything was supposed to be closed and any shop caught doing business was trashed with rocks! Not such a bad place to be stuck!

 Hitler is going for president in Peru - adobe houses useful for campaigning!

We were stuck in Huaraz for another 4 days when our hostel got wind of taxi drivers getting tourists out via a mountain pass in the middle of the night. We jumped at this and took off at midnight for Casma which is 4 hours away on the Panamerican highway. The only time we felt scared was as we left town and approached burning tyres and protesters armed with rocks - was both relieving and hilarious that an offering of 2 Solas from the driver broke their guard and let us through (equivalent to about 65c).

A muddy and bumpy mountain pass in the rainy season wasn't without its difficulties either..... adding to the fun was 2 flat tyres from our fellow convoy car (also ferrying about the only other tourists in town) and squeezing past a truck stuck and tipped in the mud (again on a single lane road).

Once in Casma, our very sweet taxi driver hailed all the night buses and got us on one to Trujillo, 3 hours further, which is where we could meet connecting buses north. We were privileged and stoked to be thrown into the cockpit alongside the driver - greeted at 5am with a big Peruvian grin, handshake, and a sing along to some Spanish opera classics.

All this said, Huaraz was a lovely town (although doesn't look or sound it here) and Peru is still my favourite country so far! The locals we dealt with were great and were more than helpful towards us. It really wasn't unsafe for us in Huaraz, just a very eventful time to be there.

A day lulling around Trujillo and we were finally headed for Mancora, a small beach town in the north of Peru. We were down to just 2 days left in Peru so we made the most of the sunshine.

Feliz navidad y feliz nuevo ano amigo's xox

Salkantay Trek y Machu Picchu, 27-1 Deciembre

It didn't suit our game plan to book the Inca Trail 6 months ahead so we opted to wing it and organise an alternative trek once we arrived in Cusco.  As it turns out, booking the Inca trail at least 6 months ahead is a bit of a myth and we could've actually booked it for a few days time, although in high season it is likely a different story. Either way, we were also pretty keen to take a path less trodden and opt for mules rather than porters.

Matt y Herlin (our local guide).

After much research and recommendations from fellow travellers, we opted for the 5 day Salkantay Trek. This winds through the Cordillera Vilcabamba to Machu Picchu from the opposite side of the valley to the classic Inca trail. Back in the day, the Salkantay trek was an Inca goods and trade route to Machu Picchu.


After the bout of travel tum, we started this trip in fairly poor form and still a little crook but soon came right - our well travelled medicine bag finally came into its own!
Was great to catch up with Amy, a mate from University in Cusco and then do most of the trek alongside her group. Somehow we ended up in different groups but did most of the trail together anyway so was all good.

Lunch spot on day one, perched on top of a very windy hill.

Amy, Matt and I - mid-way day one. Heading towards Humantay (mountain in background).

In a nut shell, this was approximately a 72km hike beginning from a small village 60km north-west of Cusco. It travels from 2800m to 4600m across the Salkantay pass, then descends down into the jungle and then undulates (Inca flat) its way along the valley to Aguas Calientes (2040m) and Machu Picchu.

With all of that comes a guide, a cook and a mule for the group which carries 5kg of your gear. Initially it felt like cheating and absolute luxury, especially being woken up each morning to a knock on the tent and a cup of fresh coca tea! Fair to say we were stoked to only be carrying a day bag at 4600m.

The fabulous Mules that lightened our load.

Day 1 was an easy 6 hr walk on Inca flat from Molleplata to a campsite situated at the base of the Salkantay climb. Day 2 had us haul ourselves up from 3400m to 4600m and back down to 3300m. The altitude definitely noticeable but not impossible. Breathtaking views and breathtaking altitude!

Salkantaypampa (3600m), part way up the ascent to the Salkantay pass.

 


Salkantay (6271m).



Easy to see why this summit has never been reached successfully.

Salkantay pass summit (4600m).

It's called the low season for a reason - the plastic poncho came in handy daily, numerous times. Thankfully the morning of the Salkantay pass ascent, the weather was perfect for us! Motivation may have been a tad low if the views were clouded.


Everyone loves a gimpy travel snapshot



 

Who would've thought there would be a shopping centre in the middle of an Inca trail.....
Basically a local family offering shelter and a stall selling powerade, chocolate and local fruit.

 

Day 3, heading down valley to La Playa. Third day was an easy 6 hour walk to a local village where we camped for the night. Even had free time for the afternoon - which saw the boys dabble in a bit of futbol at the local school.



Awesome plant. Forget the name but this is used for medicinal purposes by locals. Apparently has healing properties for those with heart problem's, hence they drink litres of soup made out of this stalk.

The jungle was full of cool plants and flowers.

Day 4 was a major highlight of the trip and a killer all the same.
This was an add-on hike called Llactapata (pronounced Yahkta-pata) - we opted for this as it takes you onto royal Inca trail and gives a view of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu from the other side to Aguas Calientes and the classic Inca trail. There are 7 royal Inca trails that all lead to directly to Machu Picchu. 

It was a steep continuous 3 hour climb from La Playa back up to 3800m to where the Llactapata ruins lie. These ruins served as a resting place and communication centre to Machu Picchu. These were only discovered in 1912.

Very happily at the top of the climb to Llactapata.

Back side of Machu Picchu from Llactapata.

Premiere entrance of Llactapata ruins, the axis directly aligned with MP.

We then had a 3 hour descent down to the river and base of the valley where we had a huge lunch waiting for us. This was followed by one last 10km stretch to Aguas Calientes where we slept for the night - the best sleep and shower ever!!


MACHU PICCHU Y HUAYNA PICCHU

Day 5 began with a 5am ascent of approximately 6km and what felt like thousands of original Inca steps to Machu Picchu - and it was one hell of a grind up after the previous day.
Herlin our guide literally ran up. It was basically a race with the buses as when the gates open there are only 400 stamps given to allow the ascent of Huayna Picchu.

The biggest sense of relief came after 45 minutes of grinding up stairs behind Herlin, to hear the sound of the first bus breaking to park. We knew that meant a) we were finished and b) we had beaten the bus and would get our stamp. Herlin was waiting at the top with a huge celebratory grin for us.

First glimpse of Machu Picchu just after 6:00am.
Just like a fairytale, the cloud lifted literally minutes after we made it
up more dreaded steps to the view point.

Classic postcard view

Turn 90 degrees to MP and the view is equally as stunning.
The whole valley is amazing!

Royal gate to Machu Picchu

The day was spent wandering around MP and up HP. Herlin gave us a substantial history lesson and then departed back to his family in Cusco. He was just the most fantastic person and guide - always going out of his way to stop and describe various Quechua traditions of both the Inca's and Peruvians as well as the flora/fauna and their many medicinal and spiritual uses or beliefs. Also all the various ways the Quechua culture connects with the Pachamama (Mother earth). Muchas gracias amigo!!


Mug shot up Huayna Picchu (2720m).



Lunch spot (at 11am) looking down on MP from Huayna Picchu.

Huayna Picchu, steepest ascent/descent of the 5 days.

A very brief history lesson...........
Machu Picchu sits at 2430m as was only discovered in 1911. Its believed that the Inca's started building MP in the 1400's but then abandoned it just over 100 years later. The jury is out but MP was likely built as an estate for the Inca empire and was located for its landscape - which was believed to be sacred and in alignment with various astronomical events. This is evident in many of the ruins such as a the temple of the sun, temple of the moon and a southern cross shaped stone set in perfect geographical alignment. 
Approximately 500 people were believed to live at MP and it is understood the inhabitants died of a smallpox outbreak. However, remains of just 173 people were found, 150 of which were female.
Twenty percent of what you see there today has been rebuilt - a figure we thought was much higher.

This is the opposite end of the royal Inca trail from Llactapata which were walking on the previous day. This part of the trail is now extinct but was known as a back door to MP.
Is incredible to think that a) they cut a path into rock this sheer and b) they, including children, walked along it.



Perfectly posed Llama. This pic shows perfectly the climb up Huayna Picchu,
that steep face on the left actually has a track up it to the top.

Machu Picchu exceeded all the hype and build-up and was simply stunning!
There was not nearly the quantity of tourists that we had expected and even so it wouldn't have mattered. The place is enormous and so incredibly well kept. Numerous times we saw staff sweeping the dirt to keep it looking pristine. There is a huge sense of appreciation, admiration and peace amongst everybody there.

Although exhausted, we were ecstatic to be there and so happy to finally tick the Machu Picchu box - yeehaaa!

Cusco, 22 de Noviembre - 3 de Deciembre



Cusco! Plaza de Armas, view from our breakfast table at the hostel - first seen on day 3.


Our initial excitement upon arriving to Cusco was dampened and brought to an abrupt halt, with a descent bout of food poisoning erupting within 12 hours of each other. Its always hard to pin-point the bacterial culprit, however we suspect it was likely to be some kind of delicious-indigenous-delectable consumed street-side the day prior in Puno (yes pronounced Pooh-no, or in my case Spew-no). Fortunately we checked into a romantic matrimonial suite with ensuite bathroom and cable television - fantastic excuse to catch up on all those missed episodes of Megastructuras in Spanish on Discovery Channel!
A good couple of days later and we were prepared to leave the safety and comforts of our accommodation to start exploring this amazing city on our doorstep.

Cusco central, another breathtaking Andean city at 3400m.

Cusco quickly became one of our favorite small city's visited so far in South America (probably in the top 3). Three distinct layers form the city; a considerable amount of buildings from the Spanish conquest built atop 600 year old Inca foundations, and in the outskirts the more recent and perhaps less interesting layer built in the last 200 years of independence. We found this graphic illustration and palimpsest of each rise and fall of power particularly fascinating.


Iglesia de El Triunfo




Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus



Clare trying her haggling skills at one of the many courtyard markets we frequented.

 

Awesome cantilevered timber balconies over the colonnade that surrounds Plaza De Armas, our hostel was the 2nd in from the right.


A lively and busy little city, here we experienced the greatest concentration of street vendors so far. Literally every 10 steps around the main plaza's you would be harassed to check out some cheap artwork (some of which was quite good), or "would you like a massage Mr....pedicure, manicure lady...?!" Obviously as a tourist mecca this was to be inherent.
Also, markets galore, of course we purchased several of the famous Llama beanies, Clare some interesting jewellery, and a favourite of mine - a beautifully crafted timber Andean recorder, spurring the renaissance of my primary school talent. I am now considering playing Clare down the aisle to Greensleeves.

Once we could digest at what could be considered a fairly normal speed again, we also enjoyed the plethora of excellent restaurants and cafes. We have since acquired a new taste for cake and milkshakes, in particular lemon-meringue pie accompanied with a cortado (coffee with milk). They love baking in Peru.

The famous Inca polished dry-stone wall construction. Mortar-free these were more earthquake resistant than mortar based construction. This is the most photographed Inca stone in Cusco because it has 12 angles. I bet you're as excited as I was.  





View from Plaza San Blas.



Qorikancha - the site of the Inca Empire's richest temple, forming the base of colonial church Iglesia de Santo Domingo. Apart from the brilliant Inca stonework, the Spanish looted everything else.   


As the base point for acclimatization and treks to Machu Picchu,  we jumped on a hike from here and on our return spent a further 2 nights before heading north.