Salkantay Trek y Machu Picchu, 27-1 Deciembre

It didn't suit our game plan to book the Inca Trail 6 months ahead so we opted to wing it and organise an alternative trek once we arrived in Cusco.  As it turns out, booking the Inca trail at least 6 months ahead is a bit of a myth and we could've actually booked it for a few days time, although in high season it is likely a different story. Either way, we were also pretty keen to take a path less trodden and opt for mules rather than porters.

Matt y Herlin (our local guide).

After much research and recommendations from fellow travellers, we opted for the 5 day Salkantay Trek. This winds through the Cordillera Vilcabamba to Machu Picchu from the opposite side of the valley to the classic Inca trail. Back in the day, the Salkantay trek was an Inca goods and trade route to Machu Picchu.


After the bout of travel tum, we started this trip in fairly poor form and still a little crook but soon came right - our well travelled medicine bag finally came into its own!
Was great to catch up with Amy, a mate from University in Cusco and then do most of the trek alongside her group. Somehow we ended up in different groups but did most of the trail together anyway so was all good.

Lunch spot on day one, perched on top of a very windy hill.

Amy, Matt and I - mid-way day one. Heading towards Humantay (mountain in background).

In a nut shell, this was approximately a 72km hike beginning from a small village 60km north-west of Cusco. It travels from 2800m to 4600m across the Salkantay pass, then descends down into the jungle and then undulates (Inca flat) its way along the valley to Aguas Calientes (2040m) and Machu Picchu.

With all of that comes a guide, a cook and a mule for the group which carries 5kg of your gear. Initially it felt like cheating and absolute luxury, especially being woken up each morning to a knock on the tent and a cup of fresh coca tea! Fair to say we were stoked to only be carrying a day bag at 4600m.

The fabulous Mules that lightened our load.

Day 1 was an easy 6 hr walk on Inca flat from Molleplata to a campsite situated at the base of the Salkantay climb. Day 2 had us haul ourselves up from 3400m to 4600m and back down to 3300m. The altitude definitely noticeable but not impossible. Breathtaking views and breathtaking altitude!

Salkantaypampa (3600m), part way up the ascent to the Salkantay pass.

 


Salkantay (6271m).



Easy to see why this summit has never been reached successfully.

Salkantay pass summit (4600m).

It's called the low season for a reason - the plastic poncho came in handy daily, numerous times. Thankfully the morning of the Salkantay pass ascent, the weather was perfect for us! Motivation may have been a tad low if the views were clouded.


Everyone loves a gimpy travel snapshot



 

Who would've thought there would be a shopping centre in the middle of an Inca trail.....
Basically a local family offering shelter and a stall selling powerade, chocolate and local fruit.

 

Day 3, heading down valley to La Playa. Third day was an easy 6 hour walk to a local village where we camped for the night. Even had free time for the afternoon - which saw the boys dabble in a bit of futbol at the local school.



Awesome plant. Forget the name but this is used for medicinal purposes by locals. Apparently has healing properties for those with heart problem's, hence they drink litres of soup made out of this stalk.

The jungle was full of cool plants and flowers.

Day 4 was a major highlight of the trip and a killer all the same.
This was an add-on hike called Llactapata (pronounced Yahkta-pata) - we opted for this as it takes you onto royal Inca trail and gives a view of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu from the other side to Aguas Calientes and the classic Inca trail. There are 7 royal Inca trails that all lead to directly to Machu Picchu. 

It was a steep continuous 3 hour climb from La Playa back up to 3800m to where the Llactapata ruins lie. These ruins served as a resting place and communication centre to Machu Picchu. These were only discovered in 1912.

Very happily at the top of the climb to Llactapata.

Back side of Machu Picchu from Llactapata.

Premiere entrance of Llactapata ruins, the axis directly aligned with MP.

We then had a 3 hour descent down to the river and base of the valley where we had a huge lunch waiting for us. This was followed by one last 10km stretch to Aguas Calientes where we slept for the night - the best sleep and shower ever!!


MACHU PICCHU Y HUAYNA PICCHU

Day 5 began with a 5am ascent of approximately 6km and what felt like thousands of original Inca steps to Machu Picchu - and it was one hell of a grind up after the previous day.
Herlin our guide literally ran up. It was basically a race with the buses as when the gates open there are only 400 stamps given to allow the ascent of Huayna Picchu.

The biggest sense of relief came after 45 minutes of grinding up stairs behind Herlin, to hear the sound of the first bus breaking to park. We knew that meant a) we were finished and b) we had beaten the bus and would get our stamp. Herlin was waiting at the top with a huge celebratory grin for us.

First glimpse of Machu Picchu just after 6:00am.
Just like a fairytale, the cloud lifted literally minutes after we made it
up more dreaded steps to the view point.

Classic postcard view

Turn 90 degrees to MP and the view is equally as stunning.
The whole valley is amazing!

Royal gate to Machu Picchu

The day was spent wandering around MP and up HP. Herlin gave us a substantial history lesson and then departed back to his family in Cusco. He was just the most fantastic person and guide - always going out of his way to stop and describe various Quechua traditions of both the Inca's and Peruvians as well as the flora/fauna and their many medicinal and spiritual uses or beliefs. Also all the various ways the Quechua culture connects with the Pachamama (Mother earth). Muchas gracias amigo!!


Mug shot up Huayna Picchu (2720m).



Lunch spot (at 11am) looking down on MP from Huayna Picchu.

Huayna Picchu, steepest ascent/descent of the 5 days.

A very brief history lesson...........
Machu Picchu sits at 2430m as was only discovered in 1911. Its believed that the Inca's started building MP in the 1400's but then abandoned it just over 100 years later. The jury is out but MP was likely built as an estate for the Inca empire and was located for its landscape - which was believed to be sacred and in alignment with various astronomical events. This is evident in many of the ruins such as a the temple of the sun, temple of the moon and a southern cross shaped stone set in perfect geographical alignment. 
Approximately 500 people were believed to live at MP and it is understood the inhabitants died of a smallpox outbreak. However, remains of just 173 people were found, 150 of which were female.
Twenty percent of what you see there today has been rebuilt - a figure we thought was much higher.

This is the opposite end of the royal Inca trail from Llactapata which were walking on the previous day. This part of the trail is now extinct but was known as a back door to MP.
Is incredible to think that a) they cut a path into rock this sheer and b) they, including children, walked along it.



Perfectly posed Llama. This pic shows perfectly the climb up Huayna Picchu,
that steep face on the left actually has a track up it to the top.

Machu Picchu exceeded all the hype and build-up and was simply stunning!
There was not nearly the quantity of tourists that we had expected and even so it wouldn't have mattered. The place is enormous and so incredibly well kept. Numerous times we saw staff sweeping the dirt to keep it looking pristine. There is a huge sense of appreciation, admiration and peace amongst everybody there.

Although exhausted, we were ecstatic to be there and so happy to finally tick the Machu Picchu box - yeehaaa!